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THE COLOURING SMILES PROJECT
The Colouring Smiles Project was born in the month of May 2009 and ended in late February 2010. On several occasions, many people have asked me, -"Hey, Jose Manuel, why did you come up the idea of going to Ukraine to bring school material to children living in orphanages? -My answer has always been the same: -I do not know. There are no specific reasons. I just want to help those kids. I think bringing them some material for painting and drawing, could be a pretty and funny way to make them smile, at least for a while.- Thus arose the name of the project: "Colouring Smiles".
During the 9 months that the project was carrying out, my initial expectations were exceeded again and again. In fact, at first, my idea was to collect just a few colouring books and some boxes of crayons, put them in my own luggage and, during a private holiday in Ukraine, visit some orphanage and deliver it personally. Without any specific intention, just to do something different. But the project grew and grew, through collaboration, participation and support from family, friends and acquaintances. I am very grateful them, because without their help this project would not have been possible.
And how grew the project? Well, we can say that "just a few colouring books and some boxes of crayons" became more than 170 kilos of school supplies. And besides, we collected over 1,400 euros for this project.
And what would happen with the money collected for the project? My initial idea was to use this money to buy basic necessities: food, clothing, medicines, etc. Anyway, I thought it was much more convenient to spend money on what is really necessary for children. As you can read a little further, the final destination of part of this money was for something as basic as FOOD. And finally, the other part of the money went to a very interesting project: educational and social training programs for children.
Now, I will tell you briefly about my experiences during the short, but intense, trip to Ukraine. We just stayed 4 days in this country, but our trip led to write many lines. Anyway, I will try to be as short as possible.
Before beginning the story, I'd like to talk about my travelling companions. The best way to finalize the project was finalizing it with friends that really thought that “The Colouring Smiles Project” was something very worthwhile. For them, it was so important, that they meant the sacrifice of a few days of their own holidays. They left their country, their families, their friends and their jobs, just for helping children and checking their smiles…
Carlos, José Manuel, Javier & Ruth in Chernihiv
From this blog, I would like to thank my friends (Carlos, Ruth, Javier and Yolanda) for their invaluable help, tireless support, wonderful company and, above all, for all the good moments that we have spent together on this unforgettable trip. And, of course, I can not forget also to thank my friends from Kiev (Yana, Sasha and Dasha). This project, simply, would not have been possible without their help and cooperation. The kindness and sensitivity of each of these seven people and their good work on this project, make that my remembrance of them is one of the most beautiful experiences that I have taken from this trip. When I think that there are people like them, it makes me very proud. With people like them, without doubt, the word FRIENDSHIP can be capitalized. Thanks for everything, my friends!
Yana & Sasha...¡Great people!
Wednesday, 24th of February 2010
“THE ARRIVAL”
Nearly 24 hours after our departure from Malaga airport, and after a long stopover in London-Gatwick, we were at Borispol International Airport in Kiev, waiting for our backpacks in the luggage room. In our faces reflected a mixture of tiredness and a feeling of optimism that made in the face of other passengers we seem not to be simple tourists who were visiting Kiev over the idea of photographing their numerous and spectacular churches, cathedrals and Orthodox monasteries. On the other hand, I highly recommend visit it, because Kiev is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. And, of course, we did not want to spend many hours locked up in the famous night clubs of Kiev, where, recently, many tourists, especially “the male ones" exercise their role of "ruthless sexual tourists" and some beautiful Ukrainian girls perform their respective role of "beautiful and sexy Ukrainian girl who wants to dance with a rich western tourist”. Or, perhaps, looking for something more than dancing?. -"Hey, hello! You are very handsome! Where are you from? Would you like to invite me to have a drink? - Uf! Poor thing! Sad plans! What a shame!!-. No, we were not in Ukraine to make "tourism". We were there just to do something different. Not better nor worse, just different.
After reclaiming our baggage and avoiding the monotonous and sterile Ukrainian border bureaucracy, we managed to reach the Entrance Hall of the airport, where more than 4.500 taxi drivers welcomed us, offering their "services". After dodging them, we changed some money into local currency. Outside, we were "slapped" by the winter cold, but we managed to find quickly the local bus to take us to the Kiev Central Station. In the Central Station we took the efficient and clean subway that would lead us to the centre of the Ukrainian capital, where we had our accommodation.
And where did we eat? I do not remember the name, but it was a very interesting place. It was a type of restaurant I'd never seen before in Spain. I explain. The restaurant in question was in the centre of Kiev, near Independence Square. When we entered, and after going down some stairs, we reached a large room in which there were several tables and chairs. So far, nothing special. The surprising thing was the big movie screen that was on one side, where films from the “golden” Soviet era were projected. Films from the 50s and 60s. I also was shocked by the decor of the place. There were all kinds of pictures, political representations, objects and utensils from the USSR times. And, of course, the food was also traditional. And very tasty!
But, undoubtedly, the best of the evening was the company. It was the first time that we met all the friends, Ukrainian and Spanish. And all of us with the same aim: The Colouring Smiles Project. We talked for a long time about our lives, about family, about friends who had wanted to come, but unfortunately could not come, etc etc etc. But mostly, we talked about the visit to the orphanage we would realize on Saturday, 27th of February: Chervony Khutir Orphanage.
Among delicious dishes of Borshch, pelminis and shots of vodka the day was finishing. We were thinking about the possibility of resting, because the day had been really long. However, the hardest and most beautiful part of the trip was yet to come
Thursday, 25th of February 2010
“Yahotyn Orphanage”
"... It was very early when the alarm of my mobile woke me up. The darkness of the night was already dead. Through the window of the room I noticed the sad and grey light of dawn. It was one of those days where it seems that the sky wants to cry. Cry inconsolably. I had the strange feeling that the day will be very hard. Hard, because the experiences and feelings. Hard, like the Ukrainian winter we ather. Hard, like the character of the person who solves all his personal problems with the help of an infinite bottle of vodka"
It was shortly after 8 am when Carlos, Ruth, Javier, Yolanda and I were in the central train station. Our mission was to buy five tickets for the train to go to the small town of Yahotyn, located about 110 kilometers east of Kiev. It was there, in the middle of the huge and crowded station, where I understood the doubts that had our Ukrainian friends about the possibility that we, unwary and daring Spanish, wanted to go alone to Yahotyn without their company. Unfortunately, they could not join us on this day, because Sasha had to work. Also, Yana and Dasha, had to leave that morning to Chervony Khutir Orphanage, because they needed to work on the whole program of activities they had planned for the children of this orphanage during our future visit on Saturday.
In the blink of an eye, and after a few laps in the season, we were boarded on a rickety prehistoric elektrichka (regional train from the Soviet era). We were on the way to Yahotyn. Each or us had our precious treasure: a round trip ticket that had cost only 1 euro and 80 cents. We were very happy. The journey took about 2 hours. During that time we were chatting, resting, joking and making a million photos. But, the most interesting train attraction was the frenetic commercial world that was happening there. All the time, there were people entering on the coach (women, men, young, old). They, loudly, were selling anything to the passengers. And when I say anything I mean anything: hairbrushes, homemade skin cosmetics, bootleg DVDs, crucifixes, food, toys “made in China", etc etc etc. Anything you can imagine was marketed. But, as use to happen in all the “important” businesses, there's always some product that "seduces" the pockets of the discerning clients. Some call it Business Marketing. I, simply, call it “opportunism”. And, in our coach, the best seller award was for a portly and slovenly man who was selling big bottles of beer for just over 30 cents of euro. What a deal!
Ukrainian elektrichka
Ykrainian sleigh
Shortly after noon, the train stopped at the Yahotyn station. We had reached our destination. The station was located on the outskirts of town. We had recently left the coach, when the train was out of sight. It was like it was swallowed by the omnipresent snow. Also, we saw that the few passengers who left the train with us had disappeared. It was normal that they disappeared quickly, because when you're minus 5 degrees, it is not very pleasant to stay outdoors. It was reasonable that these people were no longer there. However, for us, arriving to Yahotyn was something special. We took it with calm. There were a few things that seemed to be very interesting for us. I do not know why, but, perhaps, the old Soviet locomotives covered with snow and abandoned on the tracks, or, perhaps, low buildings that are guessed on the horizon and we thought we would see a group of innocent children waiting for the arrival of their new Spanish friends. Yes, Spanish people. There, in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of a beautiful and misunderstood country filled of one million contradictions.
Yahotyn Train Station
Before leaving the station, we stopped in the tiny lobby. There were some people waiting for other trains. They looked at us with a lot of surprise. -This is impossible! Foreigners! But, what the hell do these guys here? –they thought. On that moment, I wanted to ask a villager: -"Excuse me, please, where can we take the bus to go to the beaches of Odessa? No! No! I thought it was neither the place nor the right time for jokes. I would have given some grivnas (Ukrainian currency), just to see their surprised faces. Stupid question! Incredulous faces!
While we were checking the train schedules to come back to Kiev, I asked some people about the location of the orphanage. It seemed that nobody knew the street, but everyone knew of the existence of the orphanage. Then, a babushka (kind old lady) recommended us to take a bus and get off at a far-off bus-stop called "the factory". -"So, you will be near the orphanage" -she said. After waiting for 3 or 4 crowded buses, we checked that they were not heading towards our bus-stop. Actually, buses were no buses, but "marshrutkas" or special vans, prepared for carrying 10 or 12 people, and in which, among elbowing and pushing, always managed to get no less than 25 passengers. After some minutes waiting for the nonexistent minibus, we decided to take a taxi.
Marshrutka in Yahotyn
After the appropriate haggling with the taxi-driver, we made a trip of 10 or 12 kilometres. Finally, we got to the bus stop called "The Factory." We paid, got out of the vehicle and stood there, stunned. Again, we were alone in a strange place. We were near the entrance of a huge abandoned factory. Nothing special, but we noticed that there was a monument in memorial to World War II. But, it was not a common monument. It was a gigantic and destroyed machine-gunned Soviet tank. It was so real! In fact, it seemed a real tank that had actually been abandoned right here after the war. This detail reminded us that the deadly hook of War also went to this remote town. A big sum of hate and destruction in the middle of nowhere. The War, an absurd nonsense.
At about 200 meters from the abandoned factory, there was a small group of poor houses. I doubt that there were more than 15 or 20 houses. Walking clumsily on the snow, we approached a lady who was "walking" and dragging a small sled-shaped chair on which sat a red-faced baby. "Excuse me, do you know where is the orphanage? please -we asked. -"Oh, it is very close" -she replied. -"Come with me. I'll show you the way”. Our new guide was a very friendly woman. And also, her baby was lovely. He never stopped smiling for us. After a short way through rusty and mouldy houses, buried in snow, we reached our destination: the orphanage of Yahotyn.
Walking on the snow near Yahotyn´s orphanageIt was a large and high building of brown bricks. Well, it was not so high, only had two floors, but when I compared it to the houses around, I thought that it was a really huge building. The orphanage courtyard was very wide. From the thick snow there was standing out some pieces of iron and coloured plastics. It was an old playground: the top of what looked like a slide and the top of some infant swings. It was amazing, how many inches of snow could be there? I do not know! But, too much!
Yahotyn Orphanage
We went through the path that connected the entrance´s gate and the main building. Just at the moment, an old lady was leaving the orphanage. She was too fat, compared to the great majority of Ukrainian people. She looked surprised and asked -Ispantsi? We said “yes”. She smiled at us tenderly. She was very pleased to see that the Spanish or "ispantsi" had reached the orphanage of Yahotyn.
When we came in the building, my first feeling was “total darkness”, no light. Something similar to the next situation: when you're driving on a sunny day and, suddenly, you enter a tunnel. Yes, I know. There are some lights, but you can not see anything until your eyes adjust to the darkness. The hall was not very spacious. There were some stairs to the top floor. Also, there was a corridor that diverged to the left and to the right. Oksana, the lady who met us at the entrance, told us that the children had not come back from the school. -"Also, Ludmila, the orphanage director, will arrive soon” -she pointed out. Kindly, she offered to keep our coats and to show us the orphanage: the study room, sleeping rooms, bathrooms, dining room, game room, kitchen.... Every places were exactly as I had imagined, but much older. It seemed that each room was furnished with unfashionable furniture and belongings. Just like those houses that are featured on the films of the 40s or 50s. All the furniture was extremely old, but, apparently, everything was in good condition, clean and tidy. Everything I saw during our visit showed me that children should feel very comfortable there. This feeling made me feel very well.
Details of Yahotyn´s orphanage
Yahotyn chldrenOksana introduced us an older girl, about 17 years old. Her name was Vita. - What a surprise, Vita! You can speak Spanish very well! - we said. -"Well, yes, thanks! Since I was 9 years old, I use to be hostedby a Spanish family in Zaragoza. Just a few days per year, during summer or Christmass.- Vita said. At that moment, we realized that our visit to Yahotyn´s orphanage was going to be a little longer, since it was saved the serious problem of communication in a different language. We found the perfect interpreter. Young and cheerful Vita.
Children smiles were the best reward during this project
While we were finishing our lunch, Ludmila and Ruslana, the orphanage director and her assistant, arrived. It was a pleasure to meet them and have a long and interesting conversation about the organization of the orphanage and about all the problems they face daily. We learned many things, especially those relating to help that this orphanage received from the Ukrainian authorities (almost zero), bad experiences with some foreign charitable organizations, which, supposedly, act to "help" to orphanages, etc etc. Ah well, a big number of sad and hard stories that made us feel very uncomfortable. I felt that these stories sounded a little more real hard, because all the problems that we were talking about, were there, just in front of our noses. What an unfair Society! Wealth and richness for some people and poverty for other!. Poor innocent children living in a small orphanage in the middle of nowhere.
However, after many hours of investigating online and looking for some info on their different websites, I got some addresses of Ukrainian orphanages. In particular, the direction of Yahotyn orphanage appeared in a section of the website of one of these charitable organizations. I will not write the name of this organization, because I do not intend to accuse anyone of anything. Anyway, Everyone is free to have their own conclusions.
Vita, our nice translatorWhen I told her the name of the organization, suddenly, Ludmila´s face turned pale. With a full of indignation voice, she asked: - What do they say about us on their website? -"Well, Ludmila - I said, -"they say that you received economic help to make some repairs to improve some orphanage infrastructures. In fact, these repairs are detailed in a budget that they have on their website. Even, there are some children pictures.
- I can not believe it - Ludmila said. - How can they write so many lies? It is true that some months ago, some people from this organization came to visit us. We were promised they would help us and I believed them. They took lots of photos and told us they would soon return. Until now, I have not heard anything from them, except what you're telling me.
-"Ludmila, if you want, I can give you a link to the website and you will see by yourself what I am talking about" - I said. She looked at me with a lot of resignation in her eyes and said that it was not necessary. I thought it was not the first time that something similar happened to them. Also, I thought that this kind of "virtual help" was happening in other orphanages.
It is very sad! -I thought. Why they are telling lies and taking profits from these people? What kind of dirty profits will be behind some "solidarian activities" in some of these organizations? As I told you before, everyone is free to have their own conclusions. In my opinion, not all these organizations are working dishonestluy. In fact, I think most of them do an excellent solidarity job. Even, I have thought about the possibility of creating a small organization to continue helping these children, having similar projects to The Colouring Smiles Project. Anyway, after checking by myself how some "NGOs" work, now I understand the position of people who strongly distrust such organizations. We can not change this actual problem, but we can try to get a better situation with our actions, our good examples and our pure honesty…”
While we were talking with the people in charge of the orphanage, children were, gradually, taking confidence with us, especially through the funny games and caresses that Javier and Carlos were given them. It was very rewarding to see how those children were having a very happy and funny time. It was easy to check itn their faces. Also, I could check this happiness in the relationship that children had with Ludmila and other orphanage´s workers. This relationship was reflected in a total familiarity and relaxation between them. You could see the happiness expression of children, in their eyes, their gestures ... we loved this!. The only problem was the lack of money and consumer goods. But, we were there, just to try to make them a little happier, thanks to our project. Thanks to The Colouring Smiles Project and thanks to all the people who had participated.
Carlos "making friends"
After a while of pleasant conversation, we proposed going to buy some groceries to the nearest shop. We asked the director about the most useful goods for them. She said, basically, the most useful buy that they could receive was FOOD. Yes, just food. Something so basic and elemental. Something that we, fortunately, use to have everyday. For them, some basic typo of FOOD was like a precious treasure. We'd go to buy food from a nearby shop. For sure!
During the short trip to the store, which we went accompanied by some older children and Mrs. Petrovna (an orphanage pleasant responsible), they told us that eating fresh fruit was a kind of luxury action that they can not afford very often. This situation impressed me very much. If those children were not able to eat regularly fresh food, like fruit, their health could be severely damaged. - Great! We will buy lots of fruit! - we said.
In the small grocery shop, there were very little variety of products, such as it happened in the old "gastronom" in the Soviet era. However, it was perfect to buy some basic groceries. In fact, Mrs. Petrovna managed to buy a large amount of food: eggs, pasta, meat, milk, etc etc etc. And, of course, she bought lots of fresh fruit.
Part of the purchased food and goods for children
This experience was very unpleasant. At least, for me. I felt very sad and had to leave the store to get some air. Specially, when I saw the faces of some children and heard some comments like: -Um, great! Today, we will eat fruit!. Or: -Um! We will drink coca-cola! ... They seemed to be very happy, just because they were going to eat fresh fruit and drink coca-cola for a few days. It was a very hard and emotional situation.
When we came back to the orphanage, and after several "trips" to the store in search of precious treasure (food), we had the opportunity to see children opening nad enjoying the large box containing all the school material sent to them some weeks ago from Spain. It was an unforgettable moment, one of the highlights of this trip. I remember the joy, excitement and happiness, specially in the smaller children, when they were taking out all the gifts from the box. Inside, there were lots of school material: little boxes of crayons, colouring books, notebooks, reading books, children´s toys, and so on. I was thinking on every small package or gilft that I received during the 9 months that The Colouring Smiles Project was running. I remembered all the people who, thanks to the social network of travelers "Couchsurfing" sent me small packages for the Project from all over Spain, and even from all over the World, from far-off countries like Indonesia, Australia, China, Holland, Germany ... and many more. Also, I fondly remembered the contribution of material from my friends and relatives. Well, just at that moment, when I was seeing the children smiles and the happiness on their faces, was when I was really proud of everyone who had helped and collaborated in this Project. And right now, when I am writing this travel-blog, is when I would like to show again my sincere gratitude to every one of those people who made The Colouring Smiles Project became a reality. Thanks from my heart!
The Colouring Smiles ProjectWe had to return to Kiev. We still had a long way back. It was already dark when we got in the elektrichka. The returning trip was much quieter, since there were very few passengers and the train vendors and their goods should be preparing to be sold on the next day, because no one appeared. Only the ticket inspector, who asked us for the tickets. Her face showed a great surprise to see foreigners there, in a place so far from the typical Ukrainian tourist route. - What the hell will be doing these people around here? -she thought. If she had known what we had been doing in Yahotyn, she would probably not even order tickets. And, maybe, she would have smiled as well.
It was quite late when we arrived at the Central Station in Kiev. Our good friend Sasha was waiting for us there. He had finished his working day and was impatient to hear our stories of the day. We went to dinner at a Ukrainian restaurant. Then, we went to a pub to watch a football match in the company of good beer. After a few goals and some pints we decided to go to bed. The day was over and we all had the big satisfaction of knowing that all what we had done during that day we had made with the help of our hearts feelings, with all our best and pure intentions. We were happy to know that we had been helpful.
Friday, 26th of February 2010
"Tourists"
It was very early, but Sasha was already a little angry. I could notice it. I think that sharing so many time with Spanish people was loosing his patience. -These Spanish! Unpunctual, mischievous, scatterbrained ...! -he probably thought. But, obviously, he was absolutely right. We were supposed to meet at 8 am at the door of the hostel. Sasha and Oleg, the driver of the minibus, were waiting for us for 20 minutes and we had not yet come. We had to collect all our luggage, since we left that morning to the north. We were going to Novhorod Siversky, a small village about 320 kilometers northeast of Kiev. That would be our next destination. We had to spend the night at this village, before visiting the remote Chervony Khutir Orphanage on saturday.
Finally, it was almost 9 am when we left the last suburbs of Kiev. On the radio played Ukrainian folk music. Wow, I would like to sleep!! - I thought. But no, I could not sleep. I wanted to enjoy every one of the beautiful landscapes that we met on the road. Thanks to my considerable size, I could sit in the front seat. You know, some adventages for a big man -size XXL-, right?. So, I could see thick forests, small towns, villages, more interminable forests and lots of white and pure snow. A very beautiful scenery. A cold and bucolic view.
After a two hours and a half driving, we were in the historic city of Chernihiv, our first stop. In this beautiful city we had the opportunity to make 2 million photos. Before an interesting touristic tour in Chernihiv downtown, we stopped in a restaurant for some breakfast. Since I am a very "smart guy", I decided to venture to ask for my breakfast. By myself. In Russian, and without Sasha´s assistance. Well, I have just to say that "Caesar salad and chicken with barbecue sauce" is not the best option for breakfast, because this meal served and mixed with black coffee was...-well! It was not a good selection! After "breakfast", we visited some churches, monasteries and parks. I have no doubt, Chernihiv is one of the most beautiful Ukrainian cities. Its historic city center is a real wonder. We walked through each of its corners for two or three hours. After buying a lot of pies, cakes and many kilos of fresh fruit for the orphanage children, we continued on our way.
Church & Monastery in the historic city of Chernihiv
An old tanker-truck distributing "malakó" (milk) 
Arriving to Novhorod Siversky
Novhorod Siversky was a small village, around 15 thousand inhabitants are living there. It was a very beautiful place and the biggest village of the region, but ... there was a question that intrigued me: why do these people use to do in a place where there was nothing to do? There were no factories, no shops, no tourism ... nothing at all!. Only forests, snow, cold and loneliness.
Suddenly, we arrived at our hotel. Can you imagine my reaction when I saw there, in the middle of nowhere, an impressive four-star hotel? Yes! Four stars! I was wright! There were... one, two, three and four stars. I could not believe it! It was a huge hotel, relatively new, and, of course, no guests or tourists inside. -But, what the hell is this? Sasha, why is here a so impressive hotel? - I asked confused. -Do not be surprised, José Manuel. This is another example of the irresponsibility and irrationality of our politicians. Before the famous Orange Revolution of Viktor Yushchenko. (- Yushchenko? Ah, yes! -I thought. He was one Ukrainian politician who has a deformed face, because some members of the Ukrainian Secret Service, in favor of the alliance with Russia, supposedly, poisoned him with dioxin). -Sasha started to talk again: -Well, Yushchenko predecessor, Leonid Kuchma, liked hunting very much. Hunting was his fauvorite hobby. As I said before, in these wild forests there are many animals, so the practice of hunting is widespread. Well, President Kuchma thought that it would be a very good idea to build a large hotel in Siversky Novhorod to attract the attention of those tourists who like hunting. As you can see, the idea was not bad, but the real result was disastrous. And why? Because there are no tourists here. This place is too far from big cities or airports. It's an extremely remote place. -Sasha reflected.
After settle into our comfortable rooms, we decided to visit the great monastery which was right next to the hotel. The receptionist had told us that at night monks were celebrating a mass in honor of some Orthodox religious conmemoration. We thought that it could be an interesting option for us. Before entering in the church, where the ceremony would take place, we took some pictures of the monastery.
Monastery of Novhorod SiverskyThe Monastery was in a huge walled place. There were several buildings: the main church, a museum, a refectory, monks rooms ... There was a high wall that surrounded the monastic buildings. On the top of the wall there was a kind of sidewalk, which was used as a viewpoint. I thought it would be wonderful if we could go up there and see the monastery and its surroundings from that place. But, unfortunately, it was getting dark and we had no time to do more sightseeing. We went to the monastery church, where the spectacular and awesome religious ceremony had already begun.
When we opened the church´s door, an intense smell of incense hit our lungs. There were many parishioners inside. They were standing. Women had their heads covered with a peculiar handkerchief. In the background, we could hear the psalmody and prayers of the Orthodox monks. A monastery Pope waved and waved through the church, a huge incense burner, which showed a thick white smoke and a pungent smell of purity. Other monks, mixed among the parishioners, prayed kneeling and striking his forehead with the ground. It remembered me something similar to the Muslim prayers. I was very impressed bu this religious ceremony. I never considered myself a very religious person, in fact, I am not a religious person, but I have to admit that I found "this religious show" fascinating. It was not the first time I went to an Orthodox ceremony, but this was special. I do not know why, but I found it very special, maybe because the surroundings, the magical and mysterious of the moment, the prayers, the smell, the remoteness of the place, the fatigue ... I do not know!, But, it was an unforgettable experience. The Mass, which we understood nothing, as it was celebrated in ancient Slavic language, continued enigmatically. I could see that my friends, especially Ruth, also were enjoying their time with each of the situations that were happening on the religious celebration. Even, I could see that they were excited and moved. We will need a very long time to forget this wonderful experience. Something really different. A religious celebration in a monastery. In Novhorod Siversky. In the middle of nowhere. Something to remember. An unique experience of orthodox religious mysticism.
When the ceremony finished, we came back to the hotel. It was dinning time. When we were starting to have dinner at the restaurant, Yana, Dasha and other members from the ukrainian charitable foundation "Edinstvennaya" arrived. They had just arrived from Chervony Khutir Orphanage. Everything was ready for our visit the next day. They looked very tired, but very happy with the work they had been doing with the children during the last 48 hours. Their unpaid and altruistic work, to promote sociability and education for those children, was an incalculable value action. An admirable and praiseworthy action.
During dinner, we were chatting, eating, drinking vodka and joking about the possibility of going partying. It was Friday night and nightlife in Novhorod Siversky shoud be "explosive": for sure, the European bisons would be eager to dance reggaeton with those attractive Spanish tourists, am I right, Javi? You know, being at the most famous and glamorous nightclub in Novhorod, sitting on the VIP club clients area, drinking vodka-orange juice just for 70 cents of euro and dancing "strange ukrainian pop-electronic" music with the pretty bisons, could be a very interesting experience. But, no!! It was much better to go to rest, because the day had been very hard and we were exhausted. Besides, some people say that the Ukrainian bisons have a lot of bad malakó or milk. NOTE: To have "bad milk" in Spanish means: to have a very bad temperament :)
Having dinner at the restaurant -Novhorod Siversky-“…It was too late in a cold and dark early morning. My good friend Javier was sleeping on his bed. Our room was about 100 metres from the walls of one of the most fascinating places that I had ever visited in my life. The visit to the orthodox monastery of Novhorod Siversky and the attendance at the religious ceremony have shocked me. While I was trying to fall asleep, under that romantic serenade of snoring (Yes, Javi! I assure! You tremendously snore!), I remembered something. I reminded some people. Ironically, I use to call them "hoarders of kindness." I do not know why, but I remembered them. -No! Not now, please! I do not need to remind those "quite characters" looking for their moment of glory, looking for their "show" of kindness. Yes, I mean those people looking for "the picture." That "picture" in which they come out as protagonists. That "picture" in which they are seen, usually in an attitude of good and kind people. Happy, handsome and graceful. That "picture" in which "hoarders of kindness" are helping to some poor children. They are helping miserable Ukrainian orphans. -Damn, right! They are excellent people! Also, for them will be much better if on the "photo" children seem to be very ill, appear to be very poor and bitterly sad. For sure, photo will be much better! Right? Sure! So, the "hoarders of kindness" will seem better people! Yeah! Much better! And, only in this case, they can say: - Look, darling, Im very handsome in this picture! Yes, yes ... One moment, look here! What a shame, right?! This poor child sitting next to me is Ukrainian. He has leukemia and... the other one, no, that no, that one! That, the little baby who is wearing a green T-shirt! He has a thyroid tumor. And...Yes! Of course! They are orphans! And they have no money! Look! That girl has broken clothes and her face is dirty. Oops! It seems that she cried a lot, right? Poor girl! But, no matter, darling. I am very happy! I've helped them! And...Look! I am very handsome on this picture! But...what is happening here? Oh, I can not believe it! My hair is in a mess! Damn! And...Came on! The photo is blurred Oh, shit!
Furiously, I covered myself. I did not want to remember anymore the stupid "hoarders of kindness". They were stealing some part of my resting time. I needed to rest. They are the worst people in the World. The "hoarders of kindness". These unscrupulous bastards who need this kind of "photos" to feel good, to believe that they are good people for the simple fact of showing to other people a "photo" in which they are helping poor children. And, unfortunately, the worst situation is that I had the opportunity to meet these non-scrupled people through The Colouring Smiles Project. I do not want to talk longer about them, but I would like to show my deepest contempt for this kind of people. However, I want you to know one thing: "Listen to me, miserables, "hoarders of kindness", I want you to be clear about one thing: here we are, simply, to help and not to show others what good people we are. Okay? Help for help. That is the question. Just helping, because we want to help honestly".
Saturday, 27th of February 2010
"Chervony Khutir Orphanage"
Dawn was breaking when an incessant ringing of bells woke me up. I got up and looked out the window. I could see that slow monastic activity had already begun. That place was wonderfully quiet. Solitude, loneliness, stillness, calm and peace elevated to the fullest potential.
We, quickly, dressed and packed our luggage. We were leaving to the Chervony Khutir Orphanage at 9 am. We still had time to make a return visit to the Monastery. We wanted to do more photos. Sasha, Javier and I were the early visitors. And the lucky ones, because the visit was unforgettable. After "a quick course" of ice skating, we got inside the enclosure. We decided that it would be a very good option to go to the top of the walls. We asked permission to one of the monks to open us a door of one tower of the wall. Kindly, he opened the lock. Finally, we were climbed up on the top of the monastery walls, enjoying spectacular views.
Few minutes before knowing that we were trapped on the monasteryDuring 30 minutes we were visiting the walls and taking a lot of pictures. Then, we decided to come back to the door through which we entered, but (surprise!) the door was locked. We were on the top of a wall, about 10 metres off the ground. We started knocking on the door and ask for help, but nothing!. There was no one there. Nervously, we began to look for an alternative exit. It was five to nine on my clock. Our friends would be waiting for us. We thought that when they realised that we were not there in time, they would start to look for us. This idea calmed us a bit. It was very cold. I thought that we were about minus 5 degrees, but it seemed much colder, because the wind chilly factor. How could we be locked up there? Maybe, those monks wanted us to join them in their religious activities. Well, if these were their intentions, they were not going to be lucky!!
We had some moments of nervousness and stressed ideas, but after a few minutes looking for a solution to go out, we managed to find an old ladder set up on one wall that gave access to the ground. The problem was that to get to the ladder, we needed to walk through an iced and wooded roof. We got up the nerves and got out safely from the situation. As you can see from the following photos, we took it with good mood.
We found a ladder!! When we came back to the hotel, our friends gave us a not very friendly welcome. We knew that we were late, but after telling them our "forced seclusion" experience in the monastery, everyone calmed down. Even, they took it with too much humor. The "new monsk" breakfast was an infinite joke about our new religious condition. All agreed with the idea of tbe hardest obligation for them: to endure the chastity vow. They were unanimous!
After loading the minibus with all our luggage and boxes with children gifts (school material, cakes, fruit ...), it was time to leave Novhorod Siversky. We were 30 or 40kilometers away from Chervony Khutir Orphanage. Now, definitely, we were leaving civilization. The road was terrible. Well, it was not a road. It was a narrow and woodlanded lane, which was wide enough just for a small car. Fortunately, there were not precipicious or gaps the lane sides. Also, our good driver and friend, Oleg, was driving carefully with a minibus through the iced lane. The dark green of the lush and deep forests and the blinding white snow was a picture of the unreal and beautiful situation that we were living. When we were driving to Chervony Khutir, some small groups of wooden houses appeared. These wooden houses seemed that they were not inhabited, but, occasionally, someone crossed our path. At this point of the trip, anything surprised me, but I always had this strange feeling of being in the most remote place in the universe. The most inaccessible. The farthest, but the most beautiful.
On the way to Chervony Khutir orphanage Finally, we arrived to our destination: Chervony Khutir, a group of 12 old wooden houses and three much larger buildings around a small snowed square. The school, the bedrooms and livingroom and a great building with an old kitchen and specious dinning room, were the 3 orphanage buildings.
Chervony Khutir Orphanage Almost a two hours driving for just 40 kilometers from Novhorod to arrive to the end of the world. There, the road and our trip ended. Chervony Khutir was our last destination. After Chervony, there was nothing. Just more snow and more forests. There were no more houses or more people. Ukraine ended there. About 10 kilometers awya was the Russian border. And a little further, to the west, about 20 kilometers, the border with Belarus. It seemed incredible. How we managed to get there? It was amazing!
We spent a few minutes outside the school building. Children were preparing our welcome. The place was inhospitable and was bitterly cold. It seemed that we had traveled in time. The orphanage buildings were large and extremely ancient. I figured that would be more than 100 years old. Also, it was easy that they had not been reformed in a long time. The orphanage was like a kind of prison that did not make sense to run away, because, simply, there, in the middle of nowhere, there was no place to go. A place to forget. The perfect place for anyone who would like to know another kind of life. For anyone who would like to disconnect. For anyone who would deny the possibility of living in a better world. And we were there, waiting with great enthusiasm. The same delight than children, who, nerviously, were watching us from the windows.
Suddenly, come children opened the door. There were only three boys, of about 15 years old. Looking to the ground, and in a excessive shyness, welcomed us. Everything was perfectly rehearsed. Their gestures, poses and their words had been played in more than one occasion. They had prepared everything with great affection for their guests, some strange people who had come from a remote and fascinating country called Spain.
On a metal tray, they offered us some bread, which should be dipped in salt, before being eaten. We thought that it was a traditional way of welcoming. While each of us performed the "ritual" of bread and salt, one boy, called Vitaly, welcomed us on the name of all children living in Chervony and showed us their esteem and happiness for our visit. Vitaly offered us to be our guide during our visit to the orphanage.
School building corridorWhile we were walking to the top floor of the school, we were stopping at each of the dark nooks of the old orphanage. Vasily talked about each of the photographs, memorabilia and drawings which were hung on almost every wall. Our friend Dasha translated us each of the phrases that Vasily was saying. The boy was doing his job very well. I think he could become a good guide for a museum. He put much effort into every single detail he told us. Finally, we reached the top floor. In one big room some people in charge of the orphanage welcomed us and related an interesting introduction to the history of Chervony Khutir orphanage. Once again, I would like to thank Dasha for her translation, because the history of that place was really fascinating. We were told about each of the relevant historical facts of the orphanage. Also, we could see the different materials that they were keeping in that room. There were a lot of memories. Some objects were not very nice. As an example, helmets and remnants of the bombs left from the World Wars. These objects had been found by children around the orphanage.
Chervony Khutir was built and founded by a religious order in the late nineteenth century. During the twentieth century, it had several functions. However, the center's main function had always been the orphanage school. I was very impressed to learn that the orphanage had been a youth detention centre or prison during most of the USSR times. It was curious and difficult to imagine an unfenced detention centre. - Sure! - I tried to reason. - Where could they go? It was the perfect place. There, in the middle of nowhere. Impossible to make a plan of escape. - I thought. Even, during Stalin's government, children who lived there were deported to Siberia. We listened hundreds of hard stories that described perfectly the History of a place that does not appear on maps. The sad History of Chervony Khutir Orphanage.
We went down to the entrance hall. In the main corridor, there wer several doors leading to different classrooms. Each of these classrooms was decorated with ornaments and objects of the subject that was teached there. I liked literature classroom. It had a lot of drawings and pictures of Ukrainian and Russian poets and writers: Pushkin, Chekhov, Dostoevsky and Shevchenko (not the footballer, but the Ukrainian poet!) ... The desks, chairs, and, in general, all school equipment were obsolete. Everything seemed to have more than a century old. I was very impressed to see their studying situation and facilities. Totally scratched and worned-out. But at this place, and in these poor conditions, studied over 130 children of all ages. They received a very basic education and professional training.
Main corridor in the School buildingAt last, it was time for interaction with children. Yana and Dasha had prepared several surprises: games, contests, plays ... They had done all this work with a lot of interest and affection. Their main purpose is helping these children. And, of course, if they performed well each of the roles that each child was assigned, they would be rewarded with gifts, school material or some money. But, they needed to earn their "salaries." We went to a classroom. There was a 20 children group. We worked with them during all the day. They were older children, about 14 to 18 years old. They had been working hard during several weeks. And the final moment had arrived. We played to show the result of their efforts. First, we made a presentation about Spain and they showed different informations and jobs about our country. It was very funny. Some children even thought that in Spain you can see kangaroos. It was a funny and different way to learn more details of Spain, through the eyes of the children of the Chervony Khutir orphanage. 
Educational workshopsWhen children finished their workshops, we started different contests and games. We helped, participated and played with them. It was a really wonderful time. It was nice to see how those children were enjoying their time. Also, it was interesting for them to "earn" gifts and salaries, like a real occupation or job.
Activities, contests and gamesAnd, finally, one of the most exciting and beautiful moments of our visit to the orphanage. We were going to attend, as "honorary guests", a theater play that children had prepared with the help of Yana and Dasha. To this play would attend every child living in the orphanage and all the people who were working there (teachers, director, etc). We went to the large auditorium. At that moment something happened. Something that caught me off guard. Something unexpected. When I was entering to the auditorium, all children were already waiting. They sat, waiting to see the play. They looked at us curiously. There were children of all ages. Would be over 100 children or more. The auditorium was packed. And, suddenly, I realized something. There, sat, were some sick children. They attracted my attention. -Shit! - I thought. I was very surprised, because I did not expect to meet there sick children. Sometimes, we have ever seen pictures and documentaries of famous children from Chernobyl. Those children with physical handicaps and serious illness. I am talking about those children without hair, pale, saddened ... Well, I will not put more emphasis on this situation, because it is something that everyone has ever seen and, I believe, there is no need to give more details, but, I promise that when you meet face to face with this situation, your soul falls to the ground. You do not know how to react. You dont know what to do. This situation makes you feel sad and fucked. Bloody hell!!
Well, the play was a resounding success. It was very funny and dynamical. Children enjoyed a lot with the performance of the children's play "The princess who could not smile." It was true that the princess could not smile, but all the young members of the audience smiled constantly. They enjoyed a "different" day.
After lunch, we returned to orphanage school building, where we continued doing educational activities with children. Also, gave them many gifts, school material, fresh fruits and delicious cakes. Then, while Yana and Dasha were finishing their training activities, we had the opportunity to learn a little more about this gloomy place, absorbing and savoring some of the insipid stories of Chervony Khutir orphanage.
“…it was starting to get dark. It was nearly 4 pm when I was alone in one of the cold and dark corridors of Chervony Khutir Orphanage, looking at the wall noticeboards, which had hundreds of photos of children who live and had lived in the orphanage. Also, I even could recognize some of the kids with whom we had been spending the day. Suddenly, Maria passed near me. I did not notice her presence. I was engrossed in some photos. Some of these photos were really old, but I was really affected by the new ones. Surprisingly, in the newest pictures I could see that the gesture of sadness in the faces of children was more intense than in the older ones. At least, this was my feeling. -Do you like them? - Maria asked. -"Yes, Maria. They are very interesting and touching -I replied. Maria was a very pretty girl. A dark-haired girl with green eyes fulled of expressiveness. Well, she was not a girl. Almost she would be a woman soon, because she would be 18 years old in a few days. I remember that she said that soon she must leave the orphanage and would love to get out of there to be an actress. - I'll go to Kiev and learn drama! Or maybe ... no, no, no actress! I would like to become a translator! - Maria said. - I love languages! I would like to travel around the World and visit other countries. Spain, for example. It would be very nice to visit Spain and see the sea. Do you know on thing, José Manuel? I've never seen the sea. You saw it! Of course! Because, Jose Manuel, you live in a city by the sea. You are very lucky! - Maria joked. We were talking for a long time. She was very pleasant, but her words were empty, without conviction. I hope to be wrong in my ideas, but I knew that Maria would never be an actress. And knew she would never travel. She could not become a translator, because, simply, she will not have money to pay some studies or have new opportunities in her future life.
We were talking about some photos. My level of Russian and Maria´s English level were really poor, but good enough to get goosebumps when I listened some of the orphanage stories. - Hey, look at here, José Manuel! Here you can see my brother and me in the Carpathian Mountains. We were there for a week a few years ago. It was great! - she smiled. - Your brother? - I asked. -Yes, my older brother. He is no longer here. Well, actually, I do not know where he is now-. I could see that the expression on Maria´s face had changed. It was the first time that I saw seriousness in her face. I bothered her with my question, so I did not insist.
I was struck by one picture. I could see a kid. He was about 5 or 6 years old. He was standing next to an old, small and rusty bicycle. His young face was too serious, like most of the faces of Chervony Khutir children. But, there was something different in this picture. Something familiar. -Maria, who is this kid? -I asked. -He is Vanya. -Maria smiled. He is a very good boy. But, José Manuel, Vanya's life story is very sad. You know! One more sad story of many around here. Vanya was left in the orphanage by his mother when he was 3 years old -Maria gulped. -Why? -I asked. -His mother left him when she knew that his little son was suffering a serious illness. She could not stand her son´s pain and suffering. She could not see how every day his health was getting worse. She took the difficult decision to leave him, because she did not have enough money to pay for medical treatments. José Manuel, can you imagine how hard and difficult it must have been for Vanya´s mother to leave her son? -Maria looked straight to my eyes, waiting for an answer. I could not say anything.
I don´t know why, but maybe because Maria found that the touching story of little Vanya had affected me too much, unexpectedly, she began to joke - Hey, Jose Manuel! I would also like to be a good mother someday! Do you know? My dream is having a very big family and being the best Ukrainian actress! The most beautiful and richest one! Oh, no! Actress no! Translator! -Maria smiled, but I could not. I could not smile, because my mind was thinking the in the unfortunate and unhappy Vanya's mother the night in which she took the difficult decision to leave her son. Yes, it was during the night. I am sure that it was during the night when she took the final decision. One winter night. A frosted and dark night. Only during the night a mother could be able to take a so important and sad decision. And, suddenly ... -Now! I can remember him! Vanya! -I shouted. A shudder chill up my spine and back when I remembered that Vanya was one of the children who I had seen that morning in the orphanage´s auditorium. Undoubtedly, Vanya was one of those sick children that shocked me when I saw them during the theatre´s play. Yes! Vanya was the kid who, happily, said to all of us "good morning" when we were entering to the auditorium. -Dobri dien. Dobri dien. Dobri dien - Vanya said eagerly. He was the kid who was sitting in the row in front of me, to the right, 2 seats to the right in front of Ruth. Yes! I had seen Vanya! Vanya was the kid who enjoyed happily with every single detail of the theater´s show. Oh, my God! A kid with a so hard life´s story and he was enjoying so much with that play. The same play that we had prepared with affection for them. It was incredible!
Only with the memory of Vanya's smile, I can assure that all the efforts, time and work on The Colouring Smiles Project has been worth while. I am also sure that during the theater play, in that moment of complete happiness of little Vanya, his kind and good mother would be watching him from a window, outside the orphanage, , enjoying to see how her little Vanya was smiling, dancing, singing .... And, for a moment, both were very happy ... "
It was already dark when we left Chervony Khutir. I do not remember exactly what time of our long back trip to Kiev I fell asleep. It had been a long day, but full of emotions and good experiences. We were very pleased with our visit to Chervony Khutir´s orphanage and, in general, with The Colouring Smiles Project. A few hours later, with the first sunshine, I was back in Kiev Borispol International Airport, waiting for the flight to take me back home. I had the strange feeling that my trip had been an endless dream. But no. It was not a dream. Everything was real. Sadly real.
It was time to come back. I needed it. I needed to go home and hug my family.
GRATITUDES & DEDICATION
Thanks to all those people who have made possible The Colouring Smiles Project. Thanks to everyone who contributed with material, involved with your ideas, and all those who have supported this initiative of solidarity. And, of course, thanks to Ruth, Carlos, Javier, Yolanda, Sasha, Dasha & Yana, my dear friends, for sharing this wonderful experience with me.
Also, thanks to Mª Angeles, my wife, and my two lovely "fleas", Ivan and Dario, for your infinite love. I would also like to apologize for the hours I've spent on the project, for the free time sacrifice and for my occasional "bad moments". I know that you are very proud of me and you have always supported, but I am indebted to you and want you to know that this time, those moments when we could not be together because I was "working" in the project, we will recover quickly with a lot of love, hugs and kisses. Why? Well, simply, because you are the most wonderful, beautiful and most important of my life. And, because I love you very much :)
The Colouring Smiles Project is dedicated to all the children who are living in Yahotyn & Chervony Khutir orphanages in Ukraine. And, specially, I dedicate this project to a little and lovely kid called Vanya.
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Very good story! Thank you Jose Manuel for its and thank you for nice warm words! Sasha
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